Sunday, 29 June 2008

The Journey Home

June 5th

Rimini to Cortemeila 303 miles

Having wandered around the shops last night, for a couple of hours, and the view of the beach earlier with all those sun beds, we decided that Rimini lovely as it was, was not our scene. So packed up and headed towards some friends who’d moved to northern Italy a few years earlier.

A long days driving today, should have been about 260 miles but coming across a closed junction off the motorway, we had no choice but to stay with it for a few more miles, but unfortunately taking the next exit sent us onto a northbound motorway totally in the opposite with nowhere to turn around. AARRRGGGHHHHH.

Arriving about an hour and a half later than intended we were warmly welcomed by John and Rita with a glass of wine (well several actually) and a lovely meal.

Our friends told us it had been raining all day with them, so we felt lucky that apart from a light drizzle as we’d climbed up the hill towards our hosts we’d had a dry journey.

June 6th

After a good nights sleep, woke to an overcast morning. Apparently it had rained here nearly every day in May, and June hadn’t got off to a great start either.

Mid morning we set off to see Jonquilio, Rita’s horse, Alison rode him for half an hour, the rain coming and going. Rita is unable to ride at the moment due to a nasty bite on her hand by one of Jonquilio’s stable mates.

Lunch was had in “Aqui Therme” a lovely town aptly named as it has a natural hot spring in the centre of town. I did wonder why this hot gift was not put to good use by the locals, maybe having bathing pools, the water being a good healing medium for skin allergies etc.

June 7th Cortemelia (Italy) to Briancon (France) 132 miles

After another lovely dinner and a good nights sleep we set off to cross the Alps on the final leg of our journey. We didn’t get going till midday (the bed was too comfortable to get up early) and though it looked like rain it was still dry.

We wound our way through the lovely Piemonte countryside before joining the autostrada south of Turin and heading west towards the mountains. Our intention was to cross the Mon Cenis pass but when we reached Susa we discovered the pass was closed, the road having been washed away by the recent rains! We went south to try the Montgenevre hoping it would be open as the other alternative was a 15km tunnel which we didn’t fancy.

This turned out to be the original medieval part of the town complete with moat, drawbridge, portcullis and even fresh running water in a channel down the centre of the main street! There were lots of shops and restaurants in narrow cobbled streets as well as an impressive church. We had a super meal in a cellar restaurant part owned by an English guy who was also the chef.

June 8th Briancon to Dijon, 230 miles.

We woke to more rain! This eventually eased so we donned our wet suits and set off towards Grenoble where we were going to pick up the autostrada, with Dijon as that days’ destination.

Our route took us over the Col de Lautaret and through a National Park. We rode through alpine meadows filled with flowers of every colour of the rainbow, past lakes and through valleys with majestic snow capped peaks (snow was actually settling on these mountain peaks!) There were numerous water falls, some of which I think were new! And even in the rain it was stunningly beautiful, though I hadn’t expected snow in June!!

As we descended the weather improved and by the time we got on the motorway the sun was almost out. With dry roads and no trucks, it was Sunday, we made good progress and stopped for the night at a service station just south of Dijon. That night there was a terrific thunder storm and we woke to blue cloudless skies and sunshine!

June 9th Dijon to Guignicourt (near Reims) 236 miles

We stayed on the autostrada which was still relatively light in traffic and continued northwards. We came off just north of Reims having ridden 380 miles of motorway with no accidents or traffic jams (definitely not the M25!) The map had showed canals and rivers in this area so we reckoned there must be campsites as well. Our instincts were correct and after asking in a village shop were directed to a lovely site in the village of Guignicourt.

It was beside a river, complete with swans, and there were at least half a dozen British caravans and motor homes already in situe. We erected the tent with relative ease, considering it was our 1st time, and felt that any one watching wouldn’t have know we were amateurs, though the fact we were reading the instructions might have given it away! I then discovered my pannier was full of ants! It wasn’t difficult to empty it and get rid of them but we weren’t sure of the source! Were we on top of the nest or had they arrived on my jacket that had been sitting under a tree for a while? We decided to stand our ground, after all we were bigger than them, and basically we couldn’t be bothered to move the tent! After a brew we went off to investigate the town.

We found one bar open, (why does everywhere in France always seem to be closed?) and had a couple of beers before walking back along the river to the campsite for a snack supper. There were no ants about so we figured it was safe to retire! With no telly we went to bed as the sun went down and woke up very early with the rising sun (4am) shining directly in the tent. Neither of us slept brilliantly but we had at least slept under canvas, well manmade fibre.

June 10th Guignicourt (France) to Rotherfield (Kent UK) via Calais 239 miles.

Once we’d had our morning coffee, I was contemplating walking into town to get breakfast when it came to us in the form of a bakers van with fresh bread a croissants!

We packed the scooter for the last time and set of for Calais. We had no idea of ferry times that was down to luck. We started out on national roads but after a couple of hours the traffic was getting to Tony, so we stopped at a Lidl’s to get ham and brie to go in our fresh bread before getting on the autostrada and heading for Calais. Arriving just after 16.00hrs, luck was on our side and we were sailing at 16.40! We sailed into Dover around 17.00hrs and encountered our 1st traffic jam since leaving England 10 weeks earlier! (That had been the queue into Dover!!) It took nearly half an hour to get out of the dock!! We’d brought the sun with us, as promised, and once out of Dover settled down for the last 60 miles of our marathon.

Driving through the Kent countryside in the evening sunshine was as beautiful as any of the other wonderful places we’d visited on out travels. We arrived home just after 7pm tired, but in one piece, after a total of just under 3500 driven miles plus several hundred ferry miles.

We collected more money on our travels and several people in the UK have collected donations in our absence. We think the final figure we’ve raised will be around £2000. A HUGE thank you to all of you for being so generous and for believing in us even if you thought we were mad! I think you were right, but WE DID IT!!!

Saturday, 7 June 2008

Short Updates for 4th and 7th June

4 June

Finally got the scooter back at 10.00 a.m. but then the heavens opened so we decided to stay put until 3.00 p.m. Drove 50 miles to Rimini. This was all a bit harrowing with Italian drivers living up to their reputation - 40 ton trucks six feet behind us and doing 60 mph. Anyway, we finally arrived in one piece and found a nice but cheap hotel with an English landlady.

Never seen so many sunbeds on a beach - must be thousands!

Glad it’s not high season!

7 June

Still not found an internet café so having to do text updates. We are stopping tonight in Briancon in the Alps. This is a stunning place but you would never know if just driving through. A little stream runs down the centre and the buildings are beautiful. We are sitting in a bar with a log fire – yes I know it is June! It is raining outside. Just had vegetable soup and waiting the arrival of a lamb curry. Another good find and an English chef!

This detour was due to Moncenis Pass being blocked by a landslide

Anyone for skiing!

Tony

Tuesday, 3 June 2008

June 3rd, Still in Ancona



Yesterday we got up bright and early to walk the 2 miles to the scooter place and get it picked up for repair. We'd gone 50yrds when a man asked us where we were going. I think the sat nav had caught his attention. We told him and he shook his head. 'Today is a national holiday all over Italy, everything is closed' So that was that. We headed for the beach but gave up on that as it was cloudy and even started to rain on the way back!

This morning we tried again. We arrived at the place at 08:15 but it looked as if it was totally closed and had moved, but we couldn't work out where! Getting a bit despondent we asked someone who assured us it was the right place. We walked back just as someone turned up. We were too early!!! They made a phone call, and within the time it took for me to get us 2 coffees a van had turned up. He took us to the dock and disappeared off with the scooter, saying it would be a day! We headed for the beach again, more sun today. At 4pm, when we reckoned they'd be back from their siesta! Tony asked our kind landlord to phone up to enquire about progress. We were told 10am tomorrow, maybe!

So the plan to go to Venice goes out the window as well, hey ho, and we still haven't put the tent up! We will try and do this camping thing on the way home. Bit silly to go all this way and back and not use it! Tony is looking up campsites at the moment behind me, and for those of you who say it's not proper camping unless it rains, we've just had a heavy shower here and we're going further north! I suppose we need to acclimatise before getting back to the UK though we will try and bring some sunshine with us.

Hopefully next update somewhere on route home!

1st June

We left Kas at 9.30am on May 27th with temperatures already in the late 20's, bit too hot for motor bike suits, but once we were rolling it wasn't too bad. Our destination was somewhere near Ephasus about 200 miles away. We were making good progress, it was 1pm and we were about 35km south of Mugla, when we suddenly lost drive. Having coasted to a stop, Tony investigated and it became obvious the drive belt had broken. We stripped off down to shorts in the now 30 degree heat and pushed the scooter off the road behind a broken down bus. We were disappointed as the scooter had been serviced in Kas and maybe this should have been noticed.

As we were contemplating our next move 2 Turkish guys turned up to fix the bus and within 5 minutes Tony had been whisked off to a scooter garage 4km away. He was back in 10 minutes with a mechanic, followed closely by 2 more guys in a van equipped to transport bikes. After several phone calls they established that the necessary parts were not available at any of the nearby dealerships but they would be happy to take us to Izmir, 180 miles away. Tony had breakdown assistance so we called them to ask if we could accept this transport offer and send in the bill after, but they said ‘no’ we had to use their people. Regretfully we said ‘thank you and goodbye’ to the helpful Turks, pushed the scooter 200 yrds to a cafe where we then waited 2 hrs for a breakdown truck to pick us up!!!

We were taken to a dealership in Mugla where surprise, surprise - they didn't have the parts and it would take 4/5 days to get them! We already knew this but the breakdown people have to go by the book! typical b.....y English! So, we rang them back and said we wanted to be transported to Cesme, 200 miles away, so we get the ferry we were booked on the following day, and get to Italy where we felt we had more chance of getting things sorted. Once again the Turks were very helpful, supplying us with tea delivered on a bicycle while we waited to here back from the UK. After another 2 hrs waiting the garage owner took us to a hotel in town and told us to ring him in the morning and he would come and pick us up.

The following morning the insurance company rang, a different girl this time, to tell us it would take 4/5 days to get the parts! We repeated our request to be taken to Cesme and after another hour they came back with an OK. The same transporter came to pick us up, we'd told him the day before 'we'd see him tomorrow' and we were on our way. 5hrs later, having driven within 1km of Ephasus and seen it in the distance! we arrived at the port. Whilst waiting to board we met up with an English couple, John and Tracie who had been on the rough ferry crossing we didn't get from Kos to Bodrum on 19th April!! Small world. We also met a German couple, Anette and Kai, who were on their way home from having been to Australia and back on a home built motorbike and side car! Now that’s what I call a journey!! They had shipped the bike to Oz and then Singapore, driven round Thailand, Malasiya, Laos, India, Pakistan, Iran and Turkey. They have a web page with their travels on which I think is www.Dreiradententour.de Once on board we discovered to our disappointment that we weren't going through the Corinth Canal. Oh well, that was the 3rd thing!

After 3 nights and 2 sunbathing days on the ferry, the crossing was like a mill pond, we arrived in Ancona. We pushed the scooter off waved goodbye to our new friends and set about getting the scooter taken to a garage. We had several numbers to ring but unfortunately it was Saturday and this was Italy. Everything was shut. Nothing we could do but wait! So here we are having wandered around this lovely old town, eaten drunk and slept and hopefully tomorrow will bring some good news.

Saturday, 24 May 2008

Soon to be 'homeward bound'

May 23rd,

We're bronzed and rested and slowly getting ready for the return journey. We leave Kas, regretfully, next Tuesday and go northwest up the Turkish coast where we hope to finally get the tent out and camp somewhere Ephesus. Wednesday we'll have a wander round these wonderful ruins before heading to the coast and Cesme port. Here we get a ferry at 23:30 for Ancona in north-east Italy. We have 3 nights on the ferry and it will take us through the Corinth Canal - which we drove over on the way out.

We arrive in Ancona at 07:30 on the 31st and will head north up the east coast towards Venice, where we will spend a day or more. We then head west across Italy to stay with some friends in the Piedmont region. From there we go over the Alps again, hopefully staying on two wheels this time! Then back across France and home around the 11th June.


Alison and Tony

Sunday, 27 April 2008

And you thought we were mad!

Now if anyone is thinking we were a little nuts, how about this:

Friday

Met a guy in Kas yesterday, name of Ash (Ashley) had been taking some time out after University, had bought a second hand bike in Katmandu, and was travelling back to Shrewsbury in the U.K..... and the bike a Royal Enfield Bullet 350cc. Although these are still made in India the basic bike is still a 1950's design.

He visited Napal, India, Pakistan, Iran, Turkey Syria, Jordan, then back to Syria and Turkey again. He'd set off this morning to Bodrum, intending to take a couple of days, and then catching the mini ferry to Kos, then on ferry hopping to Venice.
To think we'd gone from Croatia to Italy to avoid (wots the place) because it was supposed to be a little unsafe.

Hats off to you Ash, hope the rest of your trip goes safe and well, and you manage to avoid the 'old bill' on the last leg.

Wednesday, 23 April 2008

After a couple of days rest - an update!


Saturday - Day 20

We decided to get going fairly early in the morning, well 9 o’clock, that’s earlier than most days. A quick cup of coffee, loaded up, and off. The roads were much easier in the daylight, although travelling at night was not too stressful, being able to see the uneven surfaces and potholes further ahead meant faster progress, and soon we were happily motoring along.

Stopping after about an hour for fuel and an omelette breakfast, we then motored on and only stopped again near Dalaman for coffee, a large glass of water, and the chance to empty out the first coffee.

The thick protective clothing that had kept the wind out in France, the cold out over the Alps, and the rain out in Croatia, was by now keeping the sweat well and truly in (perspiration in Alison’s case!) Just a few seconds stop at traffic lights and you could feel your temperature rising.

The road from Dalaman onwards I know well, and the thought that after all those miles, only a couple of hours away from our destination seemed to make the time just fly by.

After one more fuel stop about half an hour away, İ could feel Alison fiddling about behind me. İ soon found out that she was texting all our friends to say we were nearly there.

We pulled into Kas slowly and did the last bit of video on the move, then pulling up at Smiley's Bar near the harbour for a welcome cold beer, and being greeted by a host of friends. A BIG THANK YOU to all who turned up, and also the 'welcome' texts and messages from those that couldn't make it. Sorry to you all if we smelt a bit high, but as one friend put it ''Everyone smells in Kas at some time''

After an hour or so we set off to the apartments to well needed showers, and a change of clothes. While the reality of it all sank in.

Sunday 21st April

Feel rather sorry for Alison, all that way, then 24 hours later she has to leave to fly back to England. Then today out to Menorca to help with a family matter. Still, it’s also hot there, so it’s a question now who is going to have the best suntan in the next week to 10 days when she travels back to Turkey.

The knees are doing OK, hopefully another day or so and back to normal

Photos to follow.

Tony